Highway 222

To continue with our Italian adventure... We arrived in Florence and rented two cars for the family to travel from Florence, south to Cortona.  On the Autostrata, the journey is typically about 1 1/2 hours, however, there is a secondary road, HWY 222, more famously known as The Chianti Road.  This road is a single lane (complete with wildlife) that wraps itself around some of the most picturesque areas of Tuscany and through the famous Chianti vineyards.  Starting south of Florence and ending in equally beautiful, Siena, this road will take you through such jewels as San Casciano, Greve, Panzano and Gaiole.

Each bend in the road will give you a new Tuscan landscape, vineyard, upcoming little town and a wide variety of Trattorias begging you to stop and visit for awhile.  In fact, many foodies and wine connoisseurs talk about this road as a "must hit" if travelling through Tuscany.  I think the only road with more fame attached is "The Pretty Road" in the valley between Montepulciano and Pienza that has been captured on canvas for the rest of the world!

Joe Bastianich, a New York based Wine Guru and business partner with Mario Batali, writes about the journey down Highway 222, including the must eat and drink pit stops on the way.  In his book, Vino Italiano, Joe explains the wines of each region and his recommendations.  A must buy for wine lovers and those interested in learning more about the all mighty grape!  Mario Batali also speaks highly of this journey, and has included some fabulous eating pics on his website.  If you are planning to travel to Italy, take a look at his "Explore Italy" page, where he highlights the best of each region, giving you a snapshot of the regional foods, wines and recommendations:

http://www.mariobatali.com/

I was very excited to hit La Tenda Rossa, just outside of Greve - Batali compares it to his flagship restaurant, Babbo, where the food is not 100 percent traditional, but very creative.  Seeing as my husband and I spent an evening at Babbo last summer, I wanted to compare the experience.  However, with no address (tsk, tsk, lack of planning) and five other weary soldiers, when we realized we passed the trattoria, the decision was made to find the runner up : Il Vescovino, deep in the heart of Greve and strategically placed high in the hills.  What a fantastic experience walking through the establishment to take a seat on the patio, filled with lush vegetation, beautiful stonework and flowers, only to behold the most spectacular view of the Chianti valley!  I'm not so sure it was the runner up after all!  We sat and enjoyed our first Italian meal together, opting to have our first of many tastes of Papparelle with Boar Ragu and a beautiful glass of vino, where the only distraction was the sights and sounds and the wonderful warmth of the sun on your skin.  Heaven.

That day we opted for driving the first half of the  Chianti road and last half of the Autostrata, as time was not on our side with two weary-of-the-car-where's-the-pool kids!  Batali describes some phenomenal places to stop, including the famous Butcher in Panzano, Dario.  I think I need to re-visit this trip with husband in hand.  What a romantic trip to drive through these spectacular roads and enjoy some of the best food and wine you could imagine - simple, local, fresh and let's face it - what grows together, goes together!

Tuscan Recipe

Tuscany has wonderfully simple dishes that start with phenomenally fresh ingredients and a huge variety of meats, salumi and cheeses to heighten the experience!  Probably the most well-know Tuscan dish is a pappardelle pasta (my favorite) with Ragu.  Now, the Ragu of choice is made with Boar, but for those of us that lack Boar running wild in our back woods can easily substitute it with more common North American meats!  Trust me on this one.

Here it is from the Master himself - Enjoy!

PAPPARDELLE WITH BOAR RAGU


Makes 4 Servings
Region: Toscana
Book: Babbo Cookbook (Clarkson Potter 2002), Mario Batali

INGREDIENTS
1 pound fresh boar, pork or venison sausage, cut into chunks

1 medium Spanish onion, cut into ¼ inch dice

1 medium carrot, peeled and finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 celery stalk, cut into ¼ inch dice

4 whole fresh sage leaves

2 cups dry white wine

1 16-oz can peeled whole plum tomatoes, crushed by hand with juices

1 cup brown chicken stock


PREPARATION

In a heavy-bottomed casserole or Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium high heat until almost smoking. Cook the sausage in the olive oil until it is browned, 10 -12 minutes.
Remove the meat to a plate and ad the onions, carrot, garlic celery and sage to the casserole. Cook over low heat until softened 7 – 9 minutes. Add the wine, crushed tomatoes and their juices and chicken stock and bring to a boil. Return the meat to the pan, then lower the hat, partially cover and simmer for 1 hour. Keep warm.

Prepare pasta, fresh or dried (I prefer to go the extra mile for fresh), reserving 1/4 cup of the pasta water.  In a large pan, place ragu and pasta with a few spoons of pasta water and mix to incorporate over heat.

Serve immediately with some fresh Parmesan cheese.

Buon Appetito!

Another Slice of Heaven: Tuscany

We just returned from a trip to Europe: England and Italy, specifically. The catalyst was my mother-in-law's birthday celebrations in Yorkshire, England. But last year, over a few bottles of wine, my sister's family and mine decided it was a great opportunity to tag on a week in Italy.

So after a few days in Jolly England, we flew from Gatwick to Florence, Italy, to meet up with my sister, brother-in-law and niece. The next morning our adventure on the Italian Autostrata (delayed by a drive down the famous 222 Highway, known as the Chianti Road) began and eventually led us to our destination deep in the hills of Tuscany. We rented a beautiful, no, breathtaking villa in Montanare, just outside the Etruscan hilltop town of Cortona, in southeast Tuscany, and named after the owners, Guisi and Dario. The couple have a large property filled with olive groves to support olive oil production, a rental villa and their own home.

Here is the website:

http://www.classictuscanhomes.com/

Just as a brief background, Guisi is an accomplished Tuscan chef who many years ago, rented accommodations to Frances Mayes. It was this experience that inspired her novel "Under The Tuscan Sun". They remain friends and Mayes owns her own villa in the area. The pictures above gives you an idea of the inspiring views, tranquil and relaxing vibe of the place. I definitely did well choosing the property after hearing my husband say daily - "I could live here." And guess what - I could too!
Our time at Guisi and Dario's was wonderful.  We were able to relax and take in the beautiful scenery, coupled with banning indoor eating, as we had a stunning covered deck that overlooked the hills around Cortona and sights of Montepulciano, a famous wine region in Tuscany.  We also enjoyed day trips to nearby Umbria - specifically Perugia and Assisi as well as Montepulciano, Pienza and Cortona.  What a week!   We crowned our stay with a wonderful multiple course Tuscan meal, made by Guisi while sitting under the Tuscan sun.  I could make this a yearly pilgrimage.

Modern, Everyday Jewellry

Jewellery. Where to start? Costume to fine, modern to vintage, new to previously enjoyed - I love it all! So today, while still recovering from our European adventure, I thought I would build on the previous Stella and Dot info blog with a few of my favorite designers for modern, fun jewellery, covering the span of mass-created costume to high-end designed jewellery.

Let's start with the basics: fun, clean designs, costume with semi-precious stones and a variety of metals, including silver. Good old Stella and Dot fits the bill perfectly for me. Whether you want Indian, Asian or Mexican inspired jewellery, trendy enamel, personalized necklaces and bracelets and even a line for our children, Stella and Dot does not disappoint. In fact, you can visit the web link in the previous blog, and let your fingers do the buying! Your order will arrive in whimsically packaged boxes, ready to wear or give as gifts, in just a few days!

Canada has some great designers to choose from! For those that want to pay a bit more for higher quality everyday wear, including silver and pearl pieces, I love Hilary Druxman. This is a Winnipeg-based designer who has stunning simple, yet elegantly designed pieces. You can also order on-line and expect shipment in about five to ten days, in beautifully packaged boxes:

http://www.hilarydruxman.com/

Similarly, take a look at Vancouver's Jessie Turner:

http://www.jessieturner.ca/

You can buy these pieces online at:

www.etsy.com/shop/JessieTurnerDesigns

For those that want to spend (much) more and get some timeless pieces in gold with/out diamonds or other stones, look to Jennifer Meyer, a US based designer. Her pieces can be purchased in several trendy boutiques throughout the US, or at Mecca (Barneys). You will see her designs in such magazines as In Style, as her designs are worn by many celebrities across the globe.

http://www.jennifermeyer.com/

You can purchase her designs through several websites, inluding:

http://www.shopbop.com/

All of these lines give a diverse sampling of great modern design using a variety of materials to suit different tastes and budgets, so go ahead, buy a piece or two to add to your collection!

K

Stella and Dot

I love jewellery. Whether a piece has clean lines or elaborate detail work, modern or vintage, symbolic meanings or history behind a design, it fascinates me. Recently, I came across some fantastic pieces through the InStyle magazine from a company called Stella and Dot. I liked it so much, I have now opened a virtual store to offer these pieces to friends, family and new clients.

http://www.stelladot.com/sites/thegoods1

I hope you will take a look and add a piece or two to your collection!

K

Mexican Recipe: Salsa Verde

This is my all-time favorite salsa recipe! I use salsa with chips (totopos), on eggs, vegetables, with meats and to accompany any Mexican flavored dishes. A dear friend of mine shared this recipe with me, and I hope she does not mind me passing it along!

SALSA VERDE

6 green tomatoes (tomatillos), cut in half
1 serrano chile or one small jalapeno
2 cloves of garlic
½ bunch of fresh cilantro
Salt

Preparation

Peel the tomatoes (just the leaves/husk that covers them from outside).

In a large non-stick pan, place the chile and the tomatoes, and grill until softened (do not add oil of any type); keep them moving if they appear to brown too much.

In a blender, mix the tomatoes, chile, cilantro, garlic and salt. Add a little bit of water to aid in the blending until it reaches your desired consistency.

Ready to serve!

As an alternative, you can add this mixture to a lightly oiled pan (canola or grapeseed oil is best) and heat until the salsa changes colour. This adds an extra level of flavor to the salsa.

Muy bien!

Cabo - Part Three

For me, a really great way to learn about a culture is through their food. I love going to a local grocery store in a foreign country - you never know what's in the next isle! The restaurants where locals choose to break their bread always educates me on more cultural dishes, and generally use ingredients that are both native to that country and grown in close proximity.

Because of the influx of American tourists and celebrities, Cabo is expensive. But you can find a wide mix of restaurants to suit your wallet as well as your taste buds. Here are a few interesting places to visit during your stay in Cabo:

In San Jose Del Cabo

La Panga Antigua (first image above) - a beautiful traditional Mexican house (both indoor and outdoor areas) is transformed into a treat for all senses, from traditional Mexican music, a modern take on traditional cuisine and beautiful artwork all around you. You will pay for this experience, but it's worth it! Other Mexican cuisine favorites are Don Emiliano and the hacienda restaurant, Damiana.

Craving a french pastry or light bistro food? Set your feet walking to The French Riviera. The owner is a French chef who has brought his country's finest to the desert of Cabo. Cafe you said? Try Correcaminos cafe.

Inside the lux boutique hotel, Casa Natalia, you will find a treasure called Mi Cocina Restaurant and Tapas Bar. Evening is best. Don't forget, live music and arts on Wednesday nights! Both the restaurant and hotel have received Conde Nest Traveler Awards.

San Jose is also equipped with a local brew house, The Baja Brewing Company,as well as high end international restaurants like Baan Thai, Buon Appetito and Voila. There are a few steakhouses such as El Vaquero and haute cuisine courtesy of Morgans and El Chilar.

In Cabo San Lucas

It is a well-known fact that if you choose to go deep sea fishing and want to consume your catch, many restaurants will accept patrons with their fish in hand, charge them a minimal fee, and in return, cook a wonderful meal with appetizers and accompaniments! Just ask your concierge...

CSL is a great area to experience street food, a variety of restaurants and the ever popular American chains. I'd like to highlight a traditional Mexican restaurant we experienced on our last trip, La Fonda Mi Casa. If you want authentic, try this place! Just a friendly tip: if you are a queasy eater, read the English translation very carefully!! Unusual mainland cuisine is their motto.

La Frida, in Pueblo Bonito, (last two images) is probably the best place I would choose to have an expensive meal. Not only is it a stroll for us, but it is modelled after the one and only Frida K. The restaurant is a step back in time to the artists' life, complete with service expected in the 1940s and 1950s. The food is amazing - modern Mexican cuisine. I love just sitting there and taking it all in, transported back a few decades.

You can't go to Cabo and not have the famous tacos! (second image) Baja tacos and fish tacos - ask the locals at your hotel, and they will point you in the right direction. You'd be surprised to find out how many are operated by us Gringos! Or go where the locals chow down - taquerias por favor!

CSL is also brimming with dozens of beach restaurants, bars and if you want to feel closer to home, head to the Marina, where you can find all things familiar, including a mall! The new designer mall has opened to satisfy any one's need for designer apparel or purses, at a price.

In The Corridor

One of our favorite places to go is Villa Serena. Located across the street from Costco and before you enter the expat community of Serena. Nothing fancy, but a lively environment and the restaurant has only three walls - the last wall actually gives you a magnificent view of the ocean and coastline. A palapa restaurant. Better still, cheapest place for a lobster dinner! We typically share the Mexican assorted platter and then the catch of the day. All under $50. Sweet deal for Cabo!

Puerta Vieja Restaurant and Bar has been recommended to me by another Edmontonian, though we have not made it there yet!

Where ever you choose to dine in Cabo, it will be an adventure or a beautiful experience. Just get out an explore!

Cabo - Part Two

Many people travel to Mexico for a relaxing all-inclusive vacation. They are taken care of from start to finish, and setting foot outside the property is optional. There are many excellent choices for all-inclusive holidays in Cabo, but if you want to get out and explore, either on your own or with a tour, Cabo is a fun place to visit!

Cabo has a stunning shore line. Looking from the ocean to the land, it is quite reminiscent of the French Rivera with row after row of multi-million dollar homes hanging off the hills over the sea. For those who love to frolic in the ocean, Cabo is a mixed bag. Because of the rugged coastline and undercurrents in the Pacific, there are selected safe swimmable beaches, and other areas that are meant to be enjoyed from the safety of the sand! Medano Beach, in the heart of Cabo San Lucas, is the most popular and densely populated. Many resorts empty on to Medano and it is the main docking area for cruise ships as well as touring boats.

From Medano Beach, you have a clear view of Lands End (pictured above). This is the actual point where the Sea of Cortez meets the Pacific Ocean, and facing you is a beautiful beach, accessible only by boat, called Lover's Beach. Lover's Beach overlooks the more calm waters of the Sea of Cortez, swimmable, but you need to pack what you need for the visit - you will find some locals renting sun umbrellas or selling drinks, and that's about it. In line with good Mexican humor, a large rock formation separates Lover's Beach from it's counterpart - Divorce Beach. This beach opens to the Pacific Ocean and is definitely not swimmable - one look at the ferocious waves crashing against jagged rocks and you know this place is a good beach for sunbathing only! Both beaches are easily accessible via a short five minute boat ride and worth the visit!

Playa Pamilla, next to the opulent One and Only Pamilla Resort, is another swimmable beach. This is a large stretch of land and the water is good for snorkeling or general beach enjoyment. Close to Palmilla Bay is the world famous surf break known as Playa Costa Azul. I believe this is where you can sign up for Surf lessons at the Surf Hotel, and find people of all ages enjoying the waves!

Playa Bahia Chileno (Chilean Beach) is another swimmable beach, a cove known for diving and snorkeling, located in the Corridor. No amenities here, so pack what you need! And Monuments Beach is a small beach popular with the surfing crowd.

El Estero in San Jose del Cabo, is where you will find the famed Estuary. This is a freshwater lagoon with hundreds of wildlife and vegetation - worth a visit.

There are many more beaches throughout Los Cabos. Here are a few more that are known for activities other than swimming: Playa Santa Maria, a well photographed beach area; Widow's Beach, wonderful scenery and perfect for a picnic; and La Playita near San Jose, an excellent place for sports fishing and to watch the catch come in for the day. Just make sure to find out which beach is best for what activity, and no matter how swimmable the Bay may look, always proceed with caution to check the daily pull of undercurrents, especially if the Bay empties into the Pacific Ocean.

Cabo is a great place for divers, deep sea fishing and sea life watching, be it dolphins or whales. General activities like boat tours, swimming and snorkeling are also abundant. The Sea of Cortez is the safest and most interesting, with hundreds of sea life sharing the warm waters with you. The further up the coast you travel on the Cortez side, the calmer the waves and activities like snorkeling are more educational! All the resorts will have a go-to person who can recommend the right beach for your activities, but always check the weather, currents and flags on each beach to understand what is safe for that day - this isn't the still waters of the Caribbean, but it's a great adventure!

Cabo-Cabo Part One

This will be the first of a weeks worth of blogs on San Jose Del Cabo/Cabo San Lucas, otherwise known as Los Cabos, Mexico.

Cabo is a small area of Mexico located at the most southern tip of the California Baja Peninsula, where the Pacific Ocean meets the Sea of Cortez. Just to avoid confusion, there are two towns: San Jose Del Cabo (SJDC) and Cabo San Lucas (CSL) that compose Los Cabos ("the Capes").

SJDC is a old missionary town with lots of history, period architecture and filled with artisans, restaurants, bakeries and unique stores. It is on the Sea of Cortez side (East) of the tip and located closest to the airport. In contrast, CSL is a relatively new town, built primarily for US tourists where you can find the typical tourist traps like Senor Frogs and Hard Rock Cafe as well as an assortment of restaurants and locals selling their wares on the street. It is modernized, complete with a Costco, Walmart, Home Depot, mall and cinema. It lacks Mexican charm but oozing with bars, including Sammy Hagar's Cabo Wabo. Think of it as a haven for spring break, sigh. It is located precisely where the ocean meets the sea. The two towns are joined by a main road known as "The Corridor", where you will find hotel after resort after hotel, etc.

Our place is located west of Cabo San Lucas, close to the Old Lighthouse (the most southern point of the Peninsula) and completely on the Pacific Ocean. It is beautiful and serene, a far cry from CSL. However, we enjoy spending time in San Jose, so the drive is a good 40 minutes to experience real Mexican Charm! The pictures above show the Church (St. Joseph's, I think) in San Jose that was built primarily in the past century, but it's roots go back to the mission led by the Spaniards as far back as 1730. San Jose delivers if you want to feel embedded in another culture. It has the beach to walk down, but also several main streets lined with traditional stores and homes. However, you will also find the best art galleries, restaurants and global eating experiences in this traditional town. My favorite new find is an authentic french bakery and bistro called The French Rivera, opened by a traditional french chef who longed for something different!

The second picture is a shot of the marina in Cabo San Lucas. Not the main focal point, but a solid second place. It is surrounded by the Mall and many restaurants and markets. Medano Beach, one of several swimmable beaches in Cabo, is the main spot here, very crowded with ample bars and restaurants (The Office is a famous example) and people offering you everything from para sailing to boat tours. Not my cup of tea, but just right for others!

There are many places outside these two towns that are worth seeing and experiencing. If you are looking for a day excursion, try Todos Santos ("All Saints"), a small community 45 minutes north of Cabo on the Pacific Side, which has been given the distinction of a Puebla Magica town (one of ten in all of Mexico). This is an artisan and foody town. A good mix of expats and locals combine to bring the most fantastic collection of Mexican Art, pottery, copper works as well as restaurants, but most importantly, go to see the Mission Bell and what lies directly behind it - The Hotel California.

There are also many eco-based tours and depending on the time of year, you can experience the great Turtle release or the Whale migration. Also, you cannot talk about Cabo without exploring the Sea of Cortez - the newest sea on our earth and where Jacques Cousteau spent many years researching and filming his art. Dubbed as The World's Aquarium, it will be the focus of Cabo, Part 2.