Going home, Part 2

One of my daughter's favorite Newfoundland things...

The internationally, popular work dog, the Newfoundland Dog.  Very popular in Holland, where the dog pulls flower carts for it's owner and street vendors.

But I digress....

The liveliness of the capital, St. John's, is hard to miss, regardless of a small population around 150,000.  From the colourful saltbox homes, the quirky downtown with a huge assortment of local merchants, bistros, restaurants and pubs, the most bars per capita in North America and an abundant amount of festivals and reasons to celebrate with food and drink. 

View from above: overlooking Old St. John's, the downtown and Harbour with The Narrows

Typical saltbox style homes in Old St. John's

Old St. John's and the downtown district

You can easily spend an afternoon, evening and night strolling along the three main streets of the downtown area, enjoying some wonderful bakeries and bistros for lunch, first class dining experiences for dinner and a few too many pubs to keep you going at night! Shopping downtown is a must to see what Newfoundland has to offer in the way of unique clothes, crafts, music and art.  From Found Locally, "Downtown is align Water Street, which at 400 years old is the oldest commercial street in North America, with its colorful painted store fronts on 3 or 4 story Victorian brick and stone building. The Murray Premises is a restored 19th century fishing merchant building that survived the Great Fire, and has been restored to contain stores, restaurants and offices. One street up is Duckworth Street, which has more Restaurants and cafes intermingled with stores which are more focused on crafts, antiques and books."  Take a look at http://www.downtownstjohns.com/ 

Pending the season, visitors flock on boat tours to catch an iceberg up close, to experience the whales migration path, see the adorable Puffin in it's natural habitat or take an adventure tour by sea kayaking - an experience not to be missed!  Talk about degrees of separation, my old high school gym teacher now runs a great sea kayaking tour company aptly named Stan Cook's Sea Kayaking Adventures!  http://www.wildnfld.ca/  Stan will take you out to iceberg, puffin, whale and through the many sea arches along the coastline of Newfoundland.

THE ROOMS is the latest home of the Art Gallery and Museum of Newfoundland.  http://www.therooms.ca/artgallery/  Based in St. John's with spectacular views of the old city, the harbour, Narrows and Cabot Tower, with abundant history and a great little bistro to catch up with old or new friends.

Take a stroll through the Botanic Gardens next to Memorial University, where you can see the natural plants, flowers and trees of this unique Province.

Botanic Gardens

From most points of view in Old St.John's, the beacon on the hillside overlooking the Atlantic Ocean is a famous site, Cabot Tower on Signal Hill.  This houses an impressive view of life in Newfoundland, the ceremonious Tattoo which is re-enacted multiples times a week in the summer months, and is most importantly known as the sight of the first transatlantic communication.

Cabot Tower

Though it overlooks the Atlantic, it also offers impressive views of "The Narrows", the locals' name for the small opening between land that allows access from the Atlantic to the St. John's Harbour - the mouth of the Harbour.  Here is a beautiful picture of Fort Amherst, which resides low on the hills, opposite of Signal Hill in "The Narrows".

Fort Amherst

In the mood for history and beautifully old and preserved architecture?  Look to the beacon perched on top of Old St. John's and you'll find St. John The Baptist Basilica.  Built by the Portuguese and Spaniards while over fishing the waters, this impressive church was carefully carved out over many years and is kept in wonderful condition today.  It is currently the main place of worship for people of the Roman Catholic religion and is breathtaking from step to step.

The Basilica in action

Whether you are in the mood for modern day comforts, quirky and artisan finds, a place to have a good pint, or even a stroll back in time or wedged firmly in history of a people, a place or their contribution to the world wars, St. John's will keep you busy for days on end.

Going home, Part 1

Map of Newfoundland

Well, my daughter's wish has come true - she is now booked to travel back to "the old country" to spend some time with my family this summer.  The age of travelling independence is close at hand for Jenna, and she loves spending time with her older cousin, Juliana.  So, off to Newfoundland she goes for 8 glorious days without parents - nirvana!

For those readers who have not made the pilgrimage to this ruggedly beautiful island, shared a pint with friendly natives in the oldest city in North America or broken bread with some of the most down-to-earth people in the Western world, I would urge you to take a trip to Newfoundland.

Newfoundland and Labrador is both the oldest and youngest province in Canada, as it was the first part of the "new world" to be discovered over 500 years ago, but remained a British dominion until 1949.  The Newfoundland Blog gives an interesting snapshot of this Province: "Newfoundland is famous around the world for its unique heritage and cultural identity, as well as the stunning and rugged northern landscape it offers. Traditionally a land of fishermen, loggers, trappers and miners, Newfoundland, with most of the population living on the island, remained an isolated land for most of its history and thus a separate culture and language was able to develop.

The people of Newfoundland often call themselves 'Newfies' although this term can also be used in a derogatory sense by those from other provinces. The language spoken in Newfoundland is often considered nothing more than a strong accent, but linguists at Yale University have classified the Newfoundland dialect as a distinct language within the English group. It has its own pronunciation and lexicon, idioms and in some cases its own grammatical rules. It is impossible to describe the Newfoundland language in writing, but it is heavily based on a fusion of Irish and English and Scandinavian."

Newfoundland and Nature

Never seen an iceberg block your sea view?  Then try travelling in May or June, and you will also find yourself on the coast for lobster season!  Icebergs can be found floating past the island as late as mid July, and tourists often enjoy going iceberg-spotting, by hoping into a car and driving from port to port to see what awaits over each rolling hill.  And as 4/5 of Newfoundland is rural, the narrow roads and multiple bays will keep you wondering whats behind every bend!

Small icebergs, or Bergies, pictured in the Irish Loop

Or something much larger and magnificent

Like the wonder and natural history of National Parks?  Look no further than Newfoundland with several parks to choose from spread over the Province, though the most breathtaking by far is Gros Morne National Park based on the West coast of Newfoundland.

From http://www.newfoundlandlabrador.com/ , "It took Mother Nature 485,000,000 years to mold Gros Morne National Park into the geological and visual wonder we know today. The second largest National Park in eastern Canada, Gros Morne National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site stretching across 1,805 square kilometres of western Newfoundland as part of the towering Long Range Mountains.

Encircled by tiny seaside communities, and encompassing forests, freshwater fjords, bogs, barren lowlands, moose, and striking cliffs and shorelines, this area is also world- renowned for its complex geology. It was here that geologists proved the theory of plate tectonics. The Tablelands, a mountain of flat-topped rock of a kind usually found only deep in the earth’s mantle, is a truly awe-inspiring sight."

If you love the outdoors, Newfoundland will keep you inspired well beyond your visit.  The East Coast trail system throughout the province, the many parks, hiking, skiing, golfing, fishing and hunting opportunities are only as limited as your time and budget.  Mix a good hike with  taking a skag at some beautiful heritage sites, like the Lighthouse at Cape Spear.

Newfoundland is also known as the Sea Bird capital of North America.  No surprise to this blogger who spent her formative years here!  So, if you are at your computer and wondering where to go on your next adventure, try discovering Canada and it's history.  Mix it in with breathtaking scenery, ample activities and a warm, inviting hospitality and you have the making of an adventure to go down into your own history.

A great place to start your research or book your travel is through the official Newfoundland and Labrador travel website, one that has launched genius marketing campaigns consistently over the past several years
http://www.newfoundlandlabrador.com/

Off to savour some sun

El Arco, tip of the Baja Pennisula where the pacific Ocean meets the Sea of Cortez

Well, it is official!  We are off to Cabo!  Our once two week trip planned last year was interrupted by my husband's company, currently in the midst of a financing.  However, with skill, diligence and down right nagging, my husband brought good news home that a vacation was back on!

I am so excited to get back to our other home for a week - it's a great time to relax, rejuvenate and get out of the snow!  For those readers NOT based in Edmonton, it has snowed constantly here in Edmonton - every day since the new year, and what a perfect time to get away and enjoy watching the whales play in the ocean from our deck, bustle about in the local mercados and enjoy some much needed couple time!!

Streets of San Jose del Cabo

So, there are a few places of interest on my list this time for our trip to San Jose del Cabo.  We always try to uncover a few new gems on each visit, and this time, we want to get off the beaten path a bit and explore some establishments that are not overly touristy (which is hard to do in Cabo San Lucas), spend a few hours in some local Cantinas and my husband longed to try Pollo Carbon (BBQ Chicken, a popular street food) for many years - maybe this is the trip!

First up, is a popular eating spot called Taqueria El Fogon, known for its outstanding tacos al pastor (slow roasted pulled pork tacos), which I love!  Best of all, it is not frequented by a high volume of gringos (Americans) but a healthy mix of locals and expats!

Typical condiments for your table

There is another bar/restaurant I am interested in seeing, called El Meson del Ahorcado, meaning literally, the hanged man's restaurant.  Spot it by the effigy of a hanging cowboy dangling from the gallows.  Nuf said.

I also found a spot that produces fresh, traditional Mexican sweets, called Frutilandia.  Here in San Jose del Cabo, they offer specialties like pepitorias (brittle sesame and peanut bars), candied limes, jamoncilla (milk fudge) and a local specialty, biznaga (candied cactus).

Continuing on this sweet note is a local bakery, operated by a French chef, called French Riviera, that offers traditional french wares (similar to what we find at the Duchess Bakery in Edmonton) as well as a selection of Mexican specialities.  Although not authentic Mexican, I love visiting this Bakery to pick up one of my favorite pan dulce (sweet bread) called rollo de chocolate (chocolate croissant).  Fantastic food, nice atmosphere and very unique!

Corner view of the French Riviera

And of course a trip to Mexico means an opportunity to add to our collection of Anejo Tequila (aged Tequila, similar to a single malt scotch).  We found a few great shops in the main plaza last year with fantastic selections but missed the opportunity to experience "the" tequila store in all of Los Cabos - Los Barriles de Don Malaquias.  Here, you can find the most unique bottles of tequila with over 300 varieties and what I know will be a catch for my husband - over 24 tequilas open at all times for tastings!  Now, I hope the place comes with a shovel to assist getting said husband back into our rental car, because I have a feeling I might need help!

The tasting table

A small selection

All in all, we are both looking forward to visiting a country we love, getting away from the snow for a week and further experiencing a culture, food and people that warm our hearts!  Viva Mexico!

Merida, Part 2 - The Sea

The Beach at the Pier in Progreso, Mexico

Map of the area

I guess the title is a bit misleading, as Merida is inland!  However, just a short drive (or $1 bus fare) will bring you to the coast of Mexico to a once sleepy fishing town, though now the growing and vibrant community of Progreso.  Why is it growing?  First off, the beautiful colonial town of Merida has been consistently ranked the safest area in Mexico and of course, a growing Expat community who still long for the beach will flock to Progreso!  No matter what the country or culture, landlocked families migrate to the ocean when possible!  A nice thought - pure organic growth, but Progreso actually has one of the longest piers in the world and has now become a port of call for several cruise lines - you know what that means.  Also, Progreso is blessed with year round great weather and specifically it's winter weather is part of its new found growth, as it is nearly perfect!

Typical restaurant on the beach in Progreso

Of course, we love exploring different areas of Mexico, (trying) communicate with the locals while experiencing all that life in that area has to offer.  For such a well-travelled couple, we really do prefer a slower paced environment and enjoying simple things.  Progreso has a beautiful Malecon (Boardwalk) on the roadside of the Pier where you can spend days exploring restaurants, bistros, bars and even discos.  Why, I heard you can even enjoy a few C-A-N-T-I-N-A-S around the town! (Sorry Larissa, couldn't resist!)  Now that's fun!

Markets are colorful and plentiful - try typical westernized shopping, or stroll through several different markets or "mercados".

Progreso Craft Market

Progreso Fruit Market

And I hear one of the best ways to spend $2 on your arrival is to take a town tour on their local sightseeing tour bus!  A good idea, really, where you can orient yourself to the beaches, restaurants, plaza and markets right away.

The double decker experience for a fraction of the price!

So, where do you stay?  Well, there are several beachside hotels to stay and these are great if you are just passing through Progreso for a day or two.  However, with a week long stay you are better off renting a villa, and there is a great selection of oceanfront villas to choose from for fantastic prices!  Your tiny beachfront "cottage" for two will cost you under $500 a week, or an ultra luxurious villa for 10+ people with 5 bedrooms and 6 bathroom, pool, palapas and private beachfront for as little as $1400 week!  This gives you the convenience of being directly on the beach and within walking distance to El Centro or the Malecon; the ability to do your own grocery shopping for cervezas when you want and your own private pool - what more could anyone want!  We are sold!

I should also mention that there are eco-reserves nearby as well as a variety of Mayan ruins to check out, if you are so inclined!  And of course, you would have to take that $1 bus to El Centro of Merida and spend a day or two walking through the mercados as well as experiencing their beautiful colonial architecture, University, Museums and a variety of eating establishments from European bistros to Mexican cantinas!  All in all, I think we could spend a week easily in this neck of the woods and not lose interest!

Here is an excerpt from Yucatan Today, highlighting some important things to note:

The residents of Mérida also love Progreso. At Easter and in the summer months, Progreso is anything but laid-back…thousands of Meridanos flock to their homes away from home and swim, eat, drink, and dance. Before and after those busy times Progreso reverts to its other personality, peaceful but just busy enough to suit most visitors, and the homes owned by the Mérida residents are available for rent.

The beaches of Progreso are clean and the water a lovely emerald green (except at times during the winter months when the winds and tides of “nortes” stir up the water and toss seaweed on shore). There is also no undertow to speak of, which means it is a pleasure to swim there. Many of the restaurants on the seaside promenade, the “malecón”, have tables on the sand and will serve you there. What could be better than freshly grilled fish and a cold beer under a swaying palm tree…heavenly!

http://yucatantoday.com/en/topics/progreso

Regardless of staying in Progresso or one of the small bordering towns along the coast, this area of Mexico is definitely ranking "must see" on our continued tour of beautiful Mexico!

Dreaming of Merida, Part 1

A charter flight to Cancun and first class bus ride to Merida, or choose to fly to Houston and directly into Merida, capital of the Yucatan

(El Centro, Merida Mexico - a perfect blend of old and new)

If you haven't already noticed, my family is partial to visiting Mexico.  We are not the all-inclusive holiday family, although we have tried, as we enjoy getting out and experiencing the culture of our surroundings.  My husband and I still have many places to see in Mexico, and as his dream is to own a snowbird's escape in this country, we want to turn over many leaves before settling on "the" place.

One area of great interest is Merida.  The capital of Yucatan, but a world's distance from Cancun on every level.  Firstly, it is on the other side of the State from the Mayan Riviera and a good three hour highway drive.  It is also a Colonial town oozing with character, history (building dating back to 1500), art and culture that has been drained out of the Cancun coastal area many years ago.  Considered exceptionally safe, inland, though only 20 minutes from the Coast, Merida boasts everything you would need for a long term stay, including the familiar Coscto and Walmart while the vibrant farmers markets, museums, art galleries, shops, wildlife reserves, ruins, bistros and bars keep a tourist busy for weeks.


And for those interested in climate, it is in the tropical zone with cool winds that blow from the nearby coast.  Temperatures range from 28 - 35 throughout most of the year.

From Travel Yucatan:

Founded upon the ruins of the Mayan city T’ho, which was constructed with white limestone and means "Face of Infinity," Merida is known today as "The White City". It has beautiful and solidly built colonial buildings that house the city’s history, art, traditions and culture. In the downtown Historic Center, you can visit the city cathedral, an impressive 16^th century construction. Or you can go to interesting museums, such as the Yucatan Museum of Archaeology, which you’ll find in Palacio Canton, an elegant building dating back to the Porfirian era. You can also take a ride in a horse-drawn carriage down the city’s main avenue, Paseo Montejo, which is lined with 19^th century mansions and well-known hotels.

You can use Merida as a base to visit old henequen haciendas just several kilometers outside of the city. Many of them have been converted into luxurious hotels. As part of the exciting tour of Merida’s environments, you can check out some amazing cenotes (sinkholes) in underground river systems and you can take in beautiful natural scenery at the Reserva de la Biosfera Ria Celestun, a biosphere reserve and habitat of hundreds of pink flamingos. Also near the White City are many spectacular archaeological zones where you can discover the grandeur of the ancient Mayan culture at sites such as Uxmal, Dibilchaltun and Chichen Itza.

Celesun Biosphere Reserve

Very important for me, some information about the local food:

Merida's cuisine is distinctly different from the rest of the country for several reasons. It is a delicious blend of Mayan cooking with Spanish influence from the colonial period that lasted more than 300 years. European and Arab influences brought here by immigrants, who have been here for decades and are now part of the culture of Merida, can also be seen.


Meridian cuisine is characterized by the use of some special ingredients and condiments, which are found in several typical dishes. Some such examples are the hot but tasty habanero chili peppers, purple onions and green orange juice mixed with annatto seed paste and spices commonly used to marinate vegetables and meats. These special flavors add a spicy and tangy flavor, as well as an appealing color to famous Meridian specialties.

La Habichuela Restaurant, one of many in the city

While in Merida, you can try many of the exquisite dishes characteristic of Yucatecan cuisine. Papadzules and panuchos are made with stuffed corn tortillas and bathed in hot sauce. The traditional cochinita pibil is pork marinated in orange juice and served with beans and red onion.

Coming up in later blogs: hotels, sites and the sea in Merida.

Great Travel Bags: Casual and Stylish

OK, I can only speak from my own experiences, but when I travel, I like to be comfortable. That basically boils down to yoga gear, several layers of clothing and a comfortable bag that carries the essentials and doesn't weigh me down on one shoulder!  And I am a huge fan of the classic gym/duffle bag! With enough room for the ipod, iphone, gum and snacks, water bottle and latest issue of Instyle and always more room to spare, here are some great options for travelling in comfort and style!

You can't go wrong with Stella McCartney Adidas

A much more affordable version of classic Stella designs, look to Adidas for great styled tote and duffle bags, with compartments to stow ipods and gum without having them swallowed up  in the main compartment, and in ultra light weight fabrics - a great idea when designing a bag for travel!  I have one I purchased for the gym, but often times it is most practical as a weekender bag!

It wouldn't be a Canadian blog without adding Lululemon!

(Fast in Flight bag)

A great, large tote, similar to a shopping bag.  Perfect for travel if you expect a long journey with several magazines, sleep aids and of course, plans to buy duty-free!  It works nicely for trips to the Farmers Market and even a casual tote for work!

(Everywhere Bag)

The classic gym/yoga/pilates bag.  More compact than most Stella gym duffles, but perfect to pack up your clothes and runners and hit the gym!  I would easily use this as a carry-on piece of luggage - lightweight and goes with anything!

(Bon Voyage Bag)

This is the Lulu most closely associated to my own Stella duffle, a great light weight and padded travel bag that nicely collapses under the seat in front of you, fits within the carry-on standard, has several areas to stuff "things" in and comes in some unexpected colours!

Not a fan of the duffle bag?  Try a messenger bag, for a more polished look:

Whatever your preference, I hope everyone has a need for a travel bag this time of year!