Merida, Part 2 - The Sea

The Beach at the Pier in Progreso, Mexico

Map of the area

I guess the title is a bit misleading, as Merida is inland!  However, just a short drive (or $1 bus fare) will bring you to the coast of Mexico to a once sleepy fishing town, though now the growing and vibrant community of Progreso.  Why is it growing?  First off, the beautiful colonial town of Merida has been consistently ranked the safest area in Mexico and of course, a growing Expat community who still long for the beach will flock to Progreso!  No matter what the country or culture, landlocked families migrate to the ocean when possible!  A nice thought - pure organic growth, but Progreso actually has one of the longest piers in the world and has now become a port of call for several cruise lines - you know what that means.  Also, Progreso is blessed with year round great weather and specifically it's winter weather is part of its new found growth, as it is nearly perfect!

Typical restaurant on the beach in Progreso

Of course, we love exploring different areas of Mexico, (trying) communicate with the locals while experiencing all that life in that area has to offer.  For such a well-travelled couple, we really do prefer a slower paced environment and enjoying simple things.  Progreso has a beautiful Malecon (Boardwalk) on the roadside of the Pier where you can spend days exploring restaurants, bistros, bars and even discos.  Why, I heard you can even enjoy a few C-A-N-T-I-N-A-S around the town! (Sorry Larissa, couldn't resist!)  Now that's fun!

Markets are colorful and plentiful - try typical westernized shopping, or stroll through several different markets or "mercados".

Progreso Craft Market

Progreso Fruit Market

And I hear one of the best ways to spend $2 on your arrival is to take a town tour on their local sightseeing tour bus!  A good idea, really, where you can orient yourself to the beaches, restaurants, plaza and markets right away.

The double decker experience for a fraction of the price!

So, where do you stay?  Well, there are several beachside hotels to stay and these are great if you are just passing through Progreso for a day or two.  However, with a week long stay you are better off renting a villa, and there is a great selection of oceanfront villas to choose from for fantastic prices!  Your tiny beachfront "cottage" for two will cost you under $500 a week, or an ultra luxurious villa for 10+ people with 5 bedrooms and 6 bathroom, pool, palapas and private beachfront for as little as $1400 week!  This gives you the convenience of being directly on the beach and within walking distance to El Centro or the Malecon; the ability to do your own grocery shopping for cervezas when you want and your own private pool - what more could anyone want!  We are sold!

I should also mention that there are eco-reserves nearby as well as a variety of Mayan ruins to check out, if you are so inclined!  And of course, you would have to take that $1 bus to El Centro of Merida and spend a day or two walking through the mercados as well as experiencing their beautiful colonial architecture, University, Museums and a variety of eating establishments from European bistros to Mexican cantinas!  All in all, I think we could spend a week easily in this neck of the woods and not lose interest!

Here is an excerpt from Yucatan Today, highlighting some important things to note:

The residents of Mérida also love Progreso. At Easter and in the summer months, Progreso is anything but laid-back…thousands of Meridanos flock to their homes away from home and swim, eat, drink, and dance. Before and after those busy times Progreso reverts to its other personality, peaceful but just busy enough to suit most visitors, and the homes owned by the Mérida residents are available for rent.

The beaches of Progreso are clean and the water a lovely emerald green (except at times during the winter months when the winds and tides of “nortes” stir up the water and toss seaweed on shore). There is also no undertow to speak of, which means it is a pleasure to swim there. Many of the restaurants on the seaside promenade, the “malecón”, have tables on the sand and will serve you there. What could be better than freshly grilled fish and a cold beer under a swaying palm tree…heavenly!

http://yucatantoday.com/en/topics/progreso

Regardless of staying in Progresso or one of the small bordering towns along the coast, this area of Mexico is definitely ranking "must see" on our continued tour of beautiful Mexico!