Muerte in Mexico, Part 1

Well, after all these years...we did it.  We finally committed to visiting one of Mexico's oldest cities, Merida (capital of the Yucatan, population 1 million), and just in time to celebrate the Day(s) of the Dead -  El Dia de los Muertos.

Regardless of a hurricane passing through Cancun, nothing could dampen my excitement to land, get a good nights rest and begin our four hour car journey to the city.  Although we experienced a literal dampening with four days of torrential rain, and the evening "Dead" celebrations completely rained out in the Plaza Principal (Main Plaza), we still managed to experience the food of the festival, the altars and the spirit of this celebration.  I've got to say, although my Irish heritage knows how to throw a great party after we bury our dead, it holds no candle to this yearly event and unique way of remembering love ones passed!  Hubby and I were so impressed by the way the Mexican culture admires and remembers their dead - with both reverence, humor, and some alcoholic beverages all rolled up into one!

Take a look at some altars:

Regardless of rained-out celebrations, we were pleased to find no shortage of altars around the city.  Every restaurant, bar, shop and hotel seemed to have their own altar dedicated to that special someone.

In fact, even the Walmart bakery was in the spirit!

Altars are decorated with several specific items like marigolds (the official flower of the dead) as well as sugar skulls and dead candles, both made and sold in the local markets.  But then, to make the altar unique for the individual being remembered, the living bring items the dead loved during their time on earth - this could be as simple as a CD of their favorite music, candied fruits, desserts or meals, cigarettes and even alcoholic beverages!  Every altar we saw was equipped with at least one specific brand of beer and usually with an accompanying bottle of tequila!  That's more like it!  To finish off the altar, there will be a picture of the deceased, so everyone knows who is being honored.

Why an altar?  Beyond the logical memorial, a few locals told us that the Mexican culture believes that the deceased come back to earth on these days and are present around their family and the altar.  It's believed the items on the table will be consumed and enjoyed by the deceased over the course of the celebration and then they retreat happy and full, until next year!  The family and friends of the deceased take part in activities once enjoyed by the deceased to honor and remember...

If you happen to be in a major colonial area of Mexico during this time and see a cemetery, pop in - you are likely to see families enjoying large picnics with their deceased and everything from games played to Mariachi bands playing - only, of course, if the deceased was a particular fan of Mariachi!

A few things of interest to note: Mexican culture and food varies per region, and this holiday comes with different customs and food for each area.  In the Yucatan, a highly Mayan area of Mexico, they celebrate with a national dish only cooked over the days around the celebration - typically October 29 - November 2nd.  So for these days only, you can sample the local Mucbil Pollo - a dish of chicken wrapped in a banana leaf which is cooked in the ground (pibil-style).  The chicken is reminiscent of a Mexican chicken pot pie and very hearty.  Another muerto special found in restaurants, family tables, hotels and bakeries alike is Pan de Muerto, or what Hubby likes to call, Dead Bread.  Yup, it's literally a special bread made for this holiday!  Picture an egg washed bread, in a round formation and over the top,  cross over two small lengths of dough in the shape of bones.  From the swankiest bakery to Walmart, everyone has their own version....

Our appetite was feed with both the experience of this celebration and the fantastic cultural food that came with it - from small bars, cantinas and roadside vendors, to bistros, cafes and restaurants, there was no shortage of experiencing everything we enjoy about Mexico.  If you are ever passing through, take notice of the skeletons around you and why this country is celebrating.  Not only is it a great learning experience but a fantastic take on how a different culture celebrates loved ones who have passed.